THE GEORGIA REFUGEES
Captain John Cunningham’s Company
Colonel John Dooley’s Regiment
of
Wilkes County, Georgia Militia
Clothing and Accouterment List
Current as of March 27, 2001
“…every person liable to appear and bear Arms at any Muster, exercise
or training hereby appointed, pursuant to the directions of this Act, shall
constantly keep and bring with him, to such training, exercising or Muster, one
good Gun, Bayonet, hanger, sword, or hatchet, a Cartouch Box, twelve
Cartridges, a powder horn and half pound of Powder, with at least twenty four
rounds of Lead, a Worm, pricker and four flints each, to be produced at Musters
and at all other times retained in every Person’s House…”
excerpted from AN ACT, for the better ordering and regulating
the Militia of this State, adopted by order of the Georgia House,
November 15th, 1778.
The majority of military action
in the Province and State of Georgia during the Revolution were carried out by
the militia. They were generally not
uniformed, wearing their own clothing and carrying their own weapons. The
documentation of the clothing and accoutrements of these men is slim, but
through research and educated guesses based upon incidental citations, we have
assembled the following list. Steve
Brown is the primary researcher for our militia impression, and has found some
great information. We intend to
continually seek new information and incorporate it into our impressions.
In general, the Wilkes Countians
were lower and lower middle class farmers and tradesmen, along with a few
townsmen. The militia did not operate
with a regular supply line, like the regular army did.
Each militia member’s impression
should be an accurate portrayal of an individual, consistent in dress, manner,
equipment and accoutrements for that person’s class and social station.
Articles are broken down into
uniform items, weapons, accouterments, and personal items. Priority should be given to first
procuring those items which create a complete visual impression--weapon, clothing,
and shoes--before spending money on personal items (knapsack
stuffers). As a reminder, all visible stitching on clothing items
should by handsewn, and all fabrics should be natural fibers (in order of
preponderance—linen, wool, hemp, linsey-woolsey, towcloth, cotton and silk)
All the opinions about the
relative quality of gear from various sutlers is just that: an opinion. Our sincere thanks to Zack Pace for his
input, and to Mark Hubbs of our unit for his constructive comments and knowledge. At this time, this listing is geared to the
men; our distaff clothing list will be posted as soon as it is completed.
18th
Century fashion generally dictated that a man, regardless of his station,
should appear publicly dressed in a shirt, breeches, waistcoat, outer coat, and
hat. A man might remove his outer coat
when doing heavy physical labor, but generally would not be seen in public
without it. A man without his coat and
waistcoat on, and just his shirt would be considered immodestly clothed. Among poor people, as well as the rich,
there was a desire to dress fashionably, and there was a sizable market for
used clothing. Servant runaway
descriptions many times refer to men and women wearing silks and velvets,
however, these were most likely ragged hand-me-downs (or stolen). Cloth being dear, it was not uncommon for
clothing to be neatly pieced and patched.
There
is a wide variety of clothing that can be worn within this framework and still
be appropriate for a militia impression, but there are some things to
avoid: military-style overall trousers,
“buckskinner” or longhunter styles of clothing, Highland garb, or clothing so
old, mismatched and worn out that you would look like a servant (unless, of
course, your impression IS OF a servant.)
Coat–
Officers who raised their own units would generally have purchased their own
military-style coats, but we have no reference for such wear among the refugee units. The men would have worn civilian coats appropriate to their
station in life. This could have
included frock coats; jackets (usually from a frock coat pattern except
shorter, simplified and often unlined); or sleeved waistcoat.
Overshirt –
In order to protect their “good” clothing, some (but by no means all) of the
men may have worn an overshirt (workman’s smock, waggoner’s smock), or other
such article. This would be constructed
of either unbleached or colored heavy linen like a hunting shirt, except
reaching to the knees and not having a cape or other such addendum. These were usually a pullover type shirt to
keep from having a belt.
Shirts
– NWTA/BAR pattern plain (no ruffles) man's shirt. White shirt-weight linen.
A second shirt can be made in a properly documented period check or
stripe, or a nicer one may be made in fine linen for dress.
Neck Stock
- Civilian stocks can be of standing pleated cloth, or simply a tied cloth, of
just about any period fabric. Since the
size of the piece is small, fancier silks are possible.
Waistcoat
– Civilian waistcoats are of many different materials, such as linen, leather,
silk; and button types and patterns. Consistency with the person’s social class
would tend to regulate what should be worn, and whether it matched the other
clothing as a suit or if a hand-me-down.
For those who do not have a separate coat, the sleeved waistcoat is an
alternative. Documented patterns, stripes, and colors are acceptable, as long
as they are consistent with the overall impression.
Breeches
– As with the waistcoat, the type, material and construction of the breeches
would be very much a matter of social class.
Knee breeches and broadfall trousers would have been available, but
overalls would not be worn except by soldiers.
Documented patterns, stripes, and colors are acceptable, as long as they
are consistent with the overall impression.
Hat - One more thing that heavily depends upon the
type of person being portrayed. Straw,
felt, cloth, leather, knit wool, etc., would have been available, and may have
been worn cocked, slouched, or flopped; any documented type and material are
acceptable, as long as they are consistent with your overall impression.
Hair -
If you have hair long enough to club it in the 18th Century military style, do
so. Otherwise, a clubbed wig from
Godwin would be an alternative. It
should be styled to appear as your own hair, properly clubbed. Remember to take into account the extra size
of your new head when it comes time to order your hat.
Wigs were generally
common, but for those with their own hair, it was generally short on top, with
the sides and back long in order to make a queue. (What we now laugh at and call a “mullet,” Lord help us.) There
is little evidence for any sort of short modern buzzcut being worn openly,
unless you are doing an impression of someone whose hair had to be all cut off
because he had real bad lice or had been tarred-and-feathered (even then, such
a fellow would probably have gotten a wig to cover his shame for the times he
was around civilized folks).
A possible alternative to a full
wig is based upon an interesting historical sidenote. Newspapers of the time regularly published runaway servant
descriptions, and several of these include the information that the servant had
a queue of his own hair that he would sometimes wear, and at other times
remove. From the context, this doesn’t
look to have been something uncommon, but I haven’t found a reference (yet) as
to why this was done; I speculate that it was easier to keep the hair dressed
while working, and allowed a queue for fancier occasions. This does offer a possible alternative to a
full wig, and one of our readers, David Folds, kindly mentions the following: "On a recent trip to Williamsburg, my wife and I saw the detached queue and how it was made. My wife is presently making one for me since I cut my hair back some. Instead of suggesting the use of elastic to your folks, which would make such a piece historically inaccurate, [Mr. Oglesby blushes that he had indeed suggested this--his apologies] why not suggest this. This type of queue was attached by string or cord, colored to blend with the user's hair. The cord was tied in the front of the head above the hairline so that the piece is held onto the crown of the head. It actually works very well and does not fall off, even if you tilt your head over." Sounds like a very workable solution, and our thanks to Mr. Folds!
Beards and mustaches were not at
all common, especially among good, decent folks. If you have a nice set of whiskers, they will need to be trimmed
down to no more than a three day length.
This is one of the sacrifices that must be made to present an authentic
appearance. It will grow back.
Stockings -
$33 from Godwin. Get at least two pair
to start, may be any period correct color and should rise above the knee.
Should be hand knit (wool), but there are
examples of sewn fabric (wool, linsey-woolsey, or linen). Clocking, if present, may be somewhat showy,
but must done in a documented pattern.
Shoes
- These run $90 to $140, including the buckles. Shoes should be straight-lasted with moderately rounded toes; for
field duty they should be rough-side out, with iron heel plates or
hobnails. Pegged soles are not
appropriate. Although other civilian
styles are available and appropriate, remember that we will be outdoors and
fancy shoes will be ruined. Left-and-rights should be avoided unless you have real podiatric
problems. Straight last shoes can be
made to fit very well by wet molding to the foot. (Lightly wet them and wear until dry, apply blacking after
completely dry). Joe Catalano makes the
best, and they are custom made, but you’ll pay a lot and wait up to a year for
a pair. George Land in Canada is highly
recommended, but again has a bit of a wait.
Najecki stocks Bob Land’s shoes for $90, and they are a step above
(you’re a funny guy, Mark!) the Fugawee 1758 Model and are the same price. Fugawee’s 1758 or Fort Ligonier model is a
good shoe but does sacrifice thickness of leather, canvas lining, and heel
plates to the Bob Land shoes. The soles
are also machine sewn. However, they
stock a wide variety of sizes (including Bonhomme Richard-sized ones for
Mark Hubbs) for immediate delivery.
Godwin shoes are good, costing about $130, but again, there is at least
an 8 week lead time. Townsend shoes are not recommended.
Fowlers – The most common
civilian gun of the period was the smoothbore fowler, and probably saw more use
than any other type of weapon among American militias during the war. These were long-barreled weapons capable of
firing shot or ball. Calibers ran in
the 20 to 14 gauge range. Reproductions should be full stock with a minimum of
a 38-inch barrel. 42 to 50 inch barrels were most common. Several companies
offer completed fowlers or parts to build them, including Caywood and Northstar
West.
Trade Guns – These
were essentially cheap fowlers made for the Indian trade in North America. Several British firms produced these in
quantity throughout the 18th century.
They had most of the attributes of the fowler except they were
simplified and often had a French-style butt (ooh laa laa). Many of these guns
ended up in the hands of American settlers because they were cheaper than other
guns, or because they were captured in actions against the Indians. As with the fowlers, barrels should be at
least 38 inches long. Caywood (Wilson Trade Gun) and Northstar West (Early
English Trade Gun) make excellent reproductions of these weapons. The
“Northwest Trade Gun” is unacceptable. It is a reproduction of a later
weapon. Some vendors who sell completed
fowlers and tradeguns and kits are: http://www.caywoodguns.com/index.html
and http://www.northstarwest.com/
Rifles - First, the use of a rifle is
discouraged for several reasons, and will be accepted only on a case-by-case
basis. We are an infantry/artillery
company, not a rifle company, and smoothbores should be our predominant
weapon. The long
rifle during this period was more expensive and less versatile than smoothbore
guns. However, they were used
during the Revolution by the militia.
This would have been especially so in settlements on the frontier. There are very few mass produced
reproduction rifles that are acceptable for use. Parts can be obtained to build a very authentic period rifle,
however. Proper reproductions should be
full stocked with at least a 38-inch barrel, and calibers should be large, .50
- .62 caliber. A Refugee member would
have to inspect any rifles to ensure that they meet authenticity requirements
before they could be considered for use.
Here is a link http://www.flintlocks.com/default.asp
to give you an idea of what rifles of our period look like. This vendor is top of the line, although
less expensive rifles can be had.
As
an aside, the proper names for the working parts of the lock should be adhered
to. The curved metal part that hold the
flint is the COCK (not the hammer.) The
upright thingy that it strikes the flint against is the HAMMER (not the
frizzen.) The spring which holds the
pan shut is the FEATHER, or FEATHER SPRING (not the frizzen spring.) If the gun is a smoothbore or a rifle,
generically they are termed firelocks.
Smoothbores are called a musket, gun, or piece, not a rifle. (Hard to unlearn for everyone who went
through basic training, or watched Full Metal Jacket—“This is my rifle, this is
my gun--this is for fighting, this is for fun.”)
Weapon Accessory Items
Powder
Horn and Shot Bag/Cartridge Box – Many styles are available
for both articles. Look in Neuman and
Kravic’s Collector's Illustrated Encyclopedia
of the American Revolution for a view of the different
styles used. For militia, a good rule
of thumb may be: if you carry a civilian weapon you should have a horn and shot
pouch, if you carry a military gun, an early style English cartridge box is
also an option.
Musket Flints - If possible, obtain French buff-colored flints, as these would
have been most used, although black English flint is perfectly acceptable. Do not use machined German agates. It is better to have too many than too few,
and you should try to have about 5 or 6 in your bag, a dozen is better.
Musket Flint leathers - from any sutler, although any small piece of thin
leather will do; lead pads work, too,
and are correct, but tend to deform after a few firings requiring the frequent
retightening of the jaw screw.
Musket Whisk & Pick - from any sutler, or you can make your own from
horsehair or hog bristle, silver or brass
wire, brass chain, and small diameter brass rod. Please use care in cutting hairs from horse
or pig.
Tompion
- Maple muzzle plug available from any sutler or make your own.
Vent cover
- Brass shield covering the flash hole and side of pan to keep the nice fellow
to your right from having a permanent FFFg tattoo upon his cheek. From any sutler, plain brass only. These are required safety equipment at all
major events.
Musket Tool
- The common pricker-hammer-turnscrew Pickering-type can be ordered from any
sutler, or similar tools can be made by a local smith based on pictures in
Neumann and Kravic. The “three-way”
British tool is good for pin-fastened muskets.
Wooden "Flint" - For manual of arms or other training requiring the
simulation of firing. Used to cut down
on wear to hammer and flints, and won't make the piece go boom. Small piece of hardwood cut to size of
flint. These are available from
sutlers, but why do that–just whittle your own.
Hammer stall - Small leather cover for the hammer. Also something used for manual of arms or other training when you
might have powder in the breech or a flint in the jaw and you don't want it to
go boom. These are required at all
major events.
Musket Cleaning Kit - A very good article from the NWTA Courier at
http://www.nwta.com/couriers/11-96/clean.html has a concise idea of what is
required for the proper daily care of your firelock.
Canteen – The
stave constructed wood style is possible, but more common were the carved
wooded rumlets, a leather covered bottle, or a pitched leather bottle. See Neuman and Kravic for the variety of
types.
Bayonet w/scabbard - $85 - Should be appropriate for your type of
musket. Dixie Gun Works will fit the
bayonet to your musket.
Bayonet Carriage – Leather frog with a heavy linen or jute strap.
Haversack -
$20 - These are available from a number of sources or can easily be made. Made of natural linen (preferred), white
linen or white tow canvas, with three plain pewter buttons for closure. Sutler supplied sacks will more than likely
have to be taken up (by resewing-not a big knot on your shoulder), in order for
it to hang at the proper height (under your elbow, not below the belt).
Knife
- pocket knives are real handy and available from any sutler; giant hunting
knives are not appropriate, but a moderately sized (5-8 inch blade) is not
unheard of. Handles should be wood,
bone or antler and blades should be carbon steel.
Tomahawk/hatchet - Most appropriate is round polled with hickory handle. No spike on the back. Available from several folks, should be hand
forged.
Sword/hanger – As noted in the Militia Act,
this was also an appropriate edged weapon for members of the militia. Refer (once more) to Neumann and Kravic.
PERSONAL ITEMS
Cup -
$10 to $20 - Get one made of tin, or of copper with the inside tinned. Should be not too small (pint works good),
and make sure it can be used to heat things up in. Best bests are Godwin, Jarnagin, or Carl Giordano; Townsend is not
recommended.
Plate/Bowl
- $5 to $15 - This can be of wood, tin or pewter, but shouldn’t be too
fancy. Bowls are more practical, but
plates are fine. Try any of the
sutlers.
Eating Utensils - $2 to $25 - Made of wood, pewter, iron, or steel. Spoons are the most necessary, knives and
forks are fine (usually you can get by without either). Make sure forks are two-tined.
Blanket
- $20 to $50 - Blankets should be of 100% wool, of solid color (perhaps with
one or two dark bars at the ends), and with no lettering (i.e. U.S.) Grey or white is best; avoid olive drab. You can get blankets from any of the
sutlers, or check an Army/Navy store (make sure they fit the above
description). You can also get a long
piece of wool from a period cloth dealer and wrap up in that. Buy two if possible. Pat Kline at Family Heirloom Weavers makes
some excellent blankets that are made on a narrow loom and seamed down the
middle. Several weights to choose
from. $60 - $80
Ground Cloth - So far, documentation for something used purposely to sleep on is
a bit sketchy, but an oilcloth does seem like a necessity if you are going to
sleep on the ground. $20 to $30 - Use a
piece of heavy drilling or tightly woven tow material longer than you are when
laying down and wide enough (after piecing down the middle) for you to lay on
and pull over yourself. This can be
painted with milk paint (obtain from Old Fashioned Milk Paint Company- http://www.milkpaint.com/index.html.) Make sure that the fabric is well coated,
allow to dry thoroughly, them use a light coat of linseed oil on the surface to
seal it. Alternately, oil-based, flat
finished metal oxide type paints can be used, or just plain linseed oil over
dyed cloth. Red is suggested as a color
simply because it was common, but other earth-toned pigments are also
possible.
Eyeglasses -
One thing that must be remembered is that most (but not all) eyeglasses were
made for folks who were farsighted and needed help seeing up close, i.e.
reading glasses. Therefore, the frame
sizes were generally small, and the interpupilary distance was geared toward
reading. This is fine if you are
farsighted, but those such as your gentle adjutant who are severely nearsighted
will have some troubles. Colonial
Williamsburg has a period frame for $95, which is very similar to that sold by
Townsend. From personal experience,
these look fine from a distance, but up close they are very apparently
modern. Also, they only come in one
size. For my gigantic head, the centers
of my pupils were a half inch outside the rims. Eyeglasses did not come in just one size, and in just one size of
lens, and in just one interpupilary distance–so caveat emptor. IF you are nearsighted, these are almost
impossible to be useful for vision. My
own intention is to make my own pair of frames, based upon my (admittedly
limited) research of period frames, and fitted to my previously mentioned
gigantic head. Other details that you
should note are that the temples were generally flat and single or double hinged,
and there are no nose pads. Materials could be horn, silver, gold, or japanned
brass. Not appropriate are the
thin spring wire temples and frames common to the 19th Century American Civil
War period, or the sliding temple frames.
The sliders came a bit after our timeframe, and did not truly become
common until the 19th Century. If you can wear contacts, you are blessed. Likewise if you have the spare change for
laser surgery.
Other Stuff That Militiamen May Have Carried About With
Them, But That Are Not Well and Truly Necessary to Fully Enjoy One Another’s
Company
Currency, dice, playing cards,
penny whistle, sewing kit, firemaking kit, quill, ink, lead pencil (musket ball
drawn to a point), writing paper, Bible or prayer book, medicine, tobacco and
pipe or snuff, compass, food not issued as ration, (such as dried soup, fruit,
vegetables, cheese, parched corn), straight razor with brush and soap, mirror,
comb, soap (homemade castille soap is nice to have, although would have been an
extravagance ordinary people would probably have had little use for–the more
common plain lye soap, properly cured, is not the harsh stuff you may think it
to be–it’s kind of like Ivory soap), wash rag, blacking ball, shoe brush,
&c., &c. It goes without saying
that you should research your persona before rushing out and buying a bunch of
stuff. Militia members traveled
lightly, and may have only had a bit of extra clothing and some toilet items,
so don’t try to carry everything ever made.
96 Fabrics
301 E. Main St.
Ninety-Six, SC
(864) 543-3363
Good source of period cloth and
other items, including Fugawee shoes.
Avalon Forge
John White
409 Gun Road
Baltimore, MD 21227
(410)242-8431
Good if limited assortment of
period items.
Burnley and Trowbridge Co.
108 Druid Drive
Williamsburg, VA 23185
(757) 253-1644
Good suppliers of period cloth.
Carl Giordano - Tinsmith
PO Box 74
Wadsworth, OH 44282
Phone: 330-336-7270
Email: tinsnip@msn.com
Best tinware on the market.
C&D Jarnagin Co.
P.O. Box 1860
Corinth, MS 38835
Ph (601) 287-4977
FAX (601) 287-6033
Good tinware and accessories,
clothing is suspect in some regards.
Fugawee
3127 Corrib Dr. Box 5
Tallahassee, Fl. 32308
(800) 749-0387
http://www.fugawee.com Good period shoes.
G. Gedney Godwin
The Sutler of Mt. Misery
Box 100
Valley Forge, PA 19481
(610)783-0670
(610)783-6083
Probably the best all-around
sutler. A bit on the pricey side.
Goose Bay Workshop
Rt. 1 Box 297- C
990 Greenwood Rd.
Crozet, VA. 22932
(540)456-7111
http://www.goosebayworkshops.com/
Excellent historical tinware,
especially for cooking.
Hamilton Dry Goods
Ron "Tennessee"
Hamilton
2510 Randolph Road
Cookeville, TN 38506
(615) 528-6061
http://www.hamiltondrygoods.com/
Good supplier of hand-woven
stockings; very good wool stockings.
Roy Najecki
1203 Reynolds Rd
Chepachet, RI 02814
(401)647-3631 evenings
Highly researched items from a
British reenactor. Excellent items,
though predominantly British. Has great
shoes, up to size 13, $90
Jas. Townsend & Son. Inc.
133 N. First St., P.O. Box 415
Pierceton, IN 46S62
Ph (219) 594-5852
Fax (219) 594-5580
Many good items, some suspect
items. The “Wal-Mart” of revwar.
Smoke & Fire Co.
DonLynn Meyers
PO Box 166
Grand Rapids, OH 43522
(800) 766-5334
Similar to Townsend.