“Help
me-I’m dyeing here!”
or,
“Stink
is Period”
or,
A Short
Discussion
on the
Proper
Type of Clothing for 18th Century Civilians,
and
How to Get it Colored the Right Color
Another
in our series of articles pressed together from pocket lint and threads from
the GaRefugees email list. And an
article which positively begs for photographs. Well, at least for now, it will continue to beg until we take
some more photos. Until that time, use
your imagination, and check the various hyperlinks shown in order to get a
better idea of what folks are talking about.
The
article begins with Mark Hubbs delivering a bit of information:
Folks,
After
a conversation with Charlie McCulloh concerning possible colors for our
civilian clothing, I posted a query on the BAR and RevList mail lists. Someone brought this excellent web page to
my attention: http://hometown.aol.com/CaptCresap/page/index.htm
In
the excerpt below, I assume that “light colored” refers to a natural
unbleached, undyed, material. Brown
seems to be the most popular color, but red, green, and blue also show up. Let me know your thoughts on this issue.
Begin
excerpt:
Deserter
Descriptions from the Pennsylvania Packet & Pennsylvania Gazette.
“a
snuff colored coat and a hunting shirt, linen breeches and leggings”
“a
light cloth coat, jacket and breeches and linen leggings”
“brown
coat, spotted waistcoat, leather breeches”
“brown
coat, red waistcoat, light cloth breeches”
“light
colored homespun jacket with sleeves, striped linsey waistcoat, brown cloth
trousers”
“Sky
blue cloth coat, green jacket and breeches”
“Light
colored wilton coat, light colored jacket and black velvet breeches.”
“Blanket
coat dyed black, light colored close bodied coat, light colored jacket and
leggings”
“Blue
coat faced with red, light colored jacket and breeches”
“light
colored wilton coat and jacket, country cloth breeches with blue worsted knee
bands”
“a
hunting shirt and a light colored coat”
“a
light colored cloth coat, jacket trimmed with yellow buttons,”
“buckskin
breeches, small round hat”
“a
light colored regimental coat with a red cape, blue jacket and leather
breeches”
Patterns
of Dress
“I
was rather surprised by a pattern that emerged from the research. The manner of
dress of these riflemen went against the myth we have come to accept about
these "backwoodsmen" who as we formerly believed were dressed in
hunting shirts and buckskins. Quite the contrary is true. These men are dressed
pretty much the same as the rest of the men of the same station in life. They
are not necessarily in uniform, but are dressed, for the time, properly. This
also dispels the breechclout (or breechcloth) as an accepted item of clothing.
I never found one reference to this unusual bit of clothing being worn by these
riflemen. I did find that nearly all of the men were wearing breeches, with a
few (very few) in “trowsers.” Those who
had hunting shirts were also wearing coats.”
End
Excerpt
Mark Lewis’s comments quickly followed:
That is a good web site. I think we should avoid red for obvious
reasons. I have always preferred brown and I dye my clothes mostly in walnut
hulls. Brown was probably the easiest color to dye in the 18th century. Blue (indigo or woad) were also easy colors.
It seems to me that we wouldn't want to look too much alike, as we are portraying
militia and would have provided our own clothes. If we could find documentation
that they were supposed to show up for duty in certain colors, then that would
be the thing to have. I think our persona and station in life would indicate
what we wear. Scarlet red for instance could only be worn by the rich as it was
very expensive to dye. Brick red on the
other hand would have been much more common.
Undyed was common, as it required no additional work. However, I have
always felt that white looks kinda “greenhorn-ish,” as do most bright colors. Just my two cents. I don't want to wear velvet breeches...ha! I am a lower middle
class farmer. I do most of my own work
but have the help of my children and neighbors. I would be wearing my
hunting/work clothes.
(Say,
Mark, don’t knock them there velvet breeches until you’ve tried ‘em!)
Terry
Oglesby, (a fish so fresh he twitches and flops on deck) is a still bit new to
frontier life, and so asks a time-honored question:
For those of us who are “18th century challenged,” does the use of
‘Rit-berries” give an acceptable color and look to clothing? Charlie McCulloh
just delivered my breeches and sleeved waistcoat (beautiful work, by the way),
and I wanted the breeches (twilled hemp cloth) to be a dark brown and the
waistcoat (linen-cotton fustian) to be sort of a dark yellow-ochre. Do the home
dyestuffs look right? Will everyone
snicker at the colors and say nasty things about the farb in the clown suit?
Mark
Lewis answers the query, ignoring the fact that everyone will laugh at Mr.
Oglesby regardless of what he wears:
Everyone who does 18th century reenacting uses Rit or a similar
product. I dyed my 1812 trousers with a
big box of tea. They came out a slightly uneven butternut color. I would urge you
to be careful. as I have had some unusual colors from Rit. It used to seem like everything came out
purple. The brown has a very reddish
hue out of the box. The black comes out
dark grey. I usually use 2 or 3 boxes
of dye per item. I have overdyed Rit
with walnuts to get some nice subdued colors.
I try to stick with “woodsy” colors, as I think they are the most
pleasing to the eye.
Mark
Hubbs goes on to add the following to what Florida Mark wrote (also mercifully
ignoring Mr. Oglesby’s penchant for acting as a magnet for derision):
Mark
Lewis is right on using some Rit dyes, but there are not many other
options. The biggest problem with any
modern chemical dye is that sometimes the colors are too vivid. If you want to tone them down, you can
overdye with tea as Mark L. suggests. I
use the biggest, cheapest jar of instant tea (no lemon or sweetener) I can
find. Do it in a tub. In some cases, you aren't so much dying with
it, but just knocking the wattage down on some of the more vivid colors.
When
using Rit dyes, to get the actual color that you are shooting for, I almost
double the dye load that they recommend.
Add at least a cup of table salt as a mordant. It will help the colors stick better. The dark brown they sell is a little red; I used it on the jacket in the oxen picture. The clothes that Steve Brown is wearing was
dyed in “taupe” color. You can also mix the dyes a bit. For example, if you want a pair of breeches
to be dark brown, use two boxes of brown and one of black.
Here
is the web address for a dye company that has been recommended to me, but I
have not tried yet: http://www.dharmatrading.com/
Go
to the link “Dyes” on the left side, then to “Procion” on the next page. Loads of colors, 6 versions of “brown”
even. Under “DEKA-L” they have others
that are designed for wool. I think I
will try some of these for my next dying venture.
Mark Lewis (you know, keeping up with
the two Marks is getting to be rather difficult) gives Terry, who is no longer
averse to soaking clothes in the stuff you’re supposed to drink, another recipe
for tea dyeing and other hints:
I use a huge box of tea bags with the tags cut off (cheapest
kind). The more the better. I boil them in a large pot, let them set a
while, pour it in a 5 gallon plastic bucket, maybe adding a little more hot
water if needed. Try not to dilute any
more than you have to. I then soak the
article overnight, turning and moving the garment every so often to make sure
it doesn't look tie-dyed. I don't use
mordant as I don't wash my clothes. No
natural dye will withstand modern detergents and machines. I just hang my
clothes outside and let them air out. Stink is period.
All of Mark Hubbs’s info was just exactly the way it should have
been worded, and I could scarcely add anything. One thing to remember is that
if someone uses polyester thread on something, it will stick out like a blaze
orange vest. I know that we wouldn't do that, but watch people that make stuff
for you.
I
think Blue Heron Mercantile has some natural dyes. Logwood was one that I
thought of; it make shades of brown to black.
Remind me to tell you about the time I boiled goldenrods to make yellow
and made us all sick.
http://blueheronmercantile.com/
Mark
With Cannon returns to the fray with additional information from afar:
My
original question on the RevList about clothing color launched a discussion
among some of the know-it-alls that had nothing to do with my question: the use
of hunting frocks and breech clouts!
Anyway, I did get a very good response from Jennifer. She recommends a good book that I think I
will have to invest in. Here is her posting (Now where can I get some of that
Nanking?. . .):
>From:
Jennifer Richard-Morrow
>Subject:
Militia clothing- colours
>Dear
Mark:
>Since
you asked about the colours of clothes (not those frocks!), Spouse and I have two suggestions. Try 18c >newspapers in your area, if
there are any still available, and look at the runaway ads, shop and tailor ads. Keep >a table of the descriptions. Up here in NYS I could
tell you what the most common colours were but they may >be different down
there. An EXCELLENT RESOUCE is a
doctoral dissertation from a few years
ago by Bryan >P. Howard called HAD ON AND TOOK WITH HIM: RUNAWAY INDENTURED SERVANT CLOTHING
>IN VIGINIA, 1774-1778. (©1996, Texas A & M). In it, the author analyzes over 200 runaway ads for their
>clothes and has many tables and
appendixes. He found that the most
common colour of coats and jackets was
>blue (37), brown (24), followed by
‘light’ coloured, meaning light, white and gray, (14), gray (11) and small >amounts of various other
colours. For breeches, he found 46 pair of leather/buckskin, and cloth breeches
in >black (18), white(16), blue (12), brown (8), light (7), 7 or 8 pairs of nankeen (which was a yellow
cotton), and >red (5). The cloth is
described as ‘cloth,’ ‘drill’, ‘nankeen,’ ‘duffil,’ ‘Virginia/country,’
(whatever that was) drab, >linen (only 5!),plush (5), and a variety of
others you would have to look up in Montgomery's Dictionary of >Fabric. Try University Microfilms Inc at
1-800-521-0600. This only scratches the
surface of this fascinating >and valuable
work and Mr. Howard deserves the
undying gratitude of all of us.
>Hope
this is helpful,
>Jennifer,
Pres.
>2nd
Albany County Militia
OK,
who get to wear the "plush" breeches?!!
Well,
Charlie volunteered Ross Rich, but I believe only because he doesn’t have a
computer, and therefore is unable to read these articles. A final word here from Terry to wrap things
up:
I just got through reading the exchange about clothing colors,
too. Great stuff in among the chaff (of which there is always a bunch). From
what I can tell, I believe I am still acceptable in my choices of colors (Dark
yellow ochre waistcoat, dark brown breeches). As far as hunting smocks, frocks,
overshirts, frock coats, breechclouts, etc., etc, in the end it seems as though
it boiled down to how much money you had. If you were poor, you wore what you
had. If you had a bit more money, you might be able to afford something a bit
rougher for trips to the woods, (which might also be serviceable for your
occupation) along with something nicer for church. Some more money and you
might have hunting clothes, occupational clothes, and church clothes. Even more
and you would be considered a gentleman and be into fashionable imported cloth
of silks and such, and never stoop to dirty yourself with anything other than
foxhunts. (And would probably be a militia colonel, and have a real
military-style garment made for yourself).
Terry
also went on to later report success in the dyeing of his clothes:
Well,
I went and did it and colored my clothes yesterday using authentic Ritnut
hulls. Both turned out looking the way I wanted--dark yellow ochre coat and
brown pants. The coat was colored with two packs of golden yellow and one
brown, and the pants with two browns and one black. The only problem I had was
two spots on the seams of the coat unraveled--one on the back seam and one on
the front of the arm, both about an inch and a half long. My question to Mr.
McCulloh my tailor is, “what is the best way to fix these?”
Sorry,
Terry, that’s an article for another day!
January 16, 2001
Reformatted July 12, 2001